Hemkund Sahib Trek in September

Hemkund Sahib will be finally open to pilgrims on the 4th of September, after a three months delay due to the ongoing Pandemic. This blog is to celebrate this splendid trek & the significance of Hemkund Sahib.

Note – To read about the first 3 days, visit my blog on Valley of Flowers – https://samikshakhanduri.com/2020/08/30/trek-to-valley-of-flowers-in-september/

Day 4 – Today we rose with a lark; trek to Hemkund Sahib is a 5-6 hours affair. Post early breakfast, amidst the slight drizzles we began our 1 km hike up to the entry gate at Valley of Flowers, from where the trail diverges towards Hemkund Sahib. This Sikh pilgrimage site is perched at 4,632 m in the Garhwal Himalayas. Hemkund is a Sanskrit name which refers to “hem”, meaning snow & “kund” is in reference to the bowl shape. The ‘Dasam Granth’ of Sikh religion says that in a past life, Guru Gobind Singh meditated intensely at Hemkund on Mahakal Kalika. You will be surprised to see how Sikhs, irrespective of their age traverse, barefoot all along this 6 km steep trail from Ghangaria.

Hemkund Sahib is also referred to as Hemkund Lokpal, taking its name after the lake & a temple dedicated to Lord Lakshman here. It is also believed that it is here where the magical herbs that made the Sanjeevani Buti were found, which cured wounded Lakshman in the Hindu epic Ramayana. The myths & folklore are abounding in the air & as we negotiated a steep ascent of 3 Kms, we found a pit stop dotted by few tea stalls & quick bite shanty. In this entire impeccable trail, there is not a single person who is not consciously taking care of the surrounding. Everyone seems to be acting like in a utopian fantasy of our modern life, keeping the trails clean. We took a refreshing break at the tea stall watching the pilgrims dedicatedly continue their pilgrimage.

The views became misty ahead; clouds covered our immediate vicinity as we were treading on the steep ascent. While on our right, Ghangaria looked like a speck of dust amidst the gigantic mountains. More than anything, Hemkund is a place for a meditative walk allowing so much space to you that even amidst umpteen voices, you can still hear yourself in silence within. We continued walking the remaining 3 km with much effort now, the chill of the mountains rattled our bones, and it was freezing cold when I saw a 0 Km milestone on the trail. I have never been more relieved by mathematics or on seeing the number zero, until that day. The tedious walk was still a few meters to cover until we reached the star-shaped marvel.

On getting the first glance of the lake at 15,200 ft sprinkled by Brahma kamal flowers (the state flower of Uttarakhand) it was no less than a celestial sight. We walked into the Gurudwara where the Granth was being read in the most warming atmosphere, that we almost forgot what the world looked like outside its walls. The rains continued to patter & after taking our bit of spirituality from there we walked out towards the langar (Food) hall. The concept of seva never fails to impress upon me, that need for selflessness, that this place was pouring with, from all sides. We had our share of khichdi & tea as prashad in that drizzling mood of the mountains, steadily warming us within.

It was about 2:00 pm, after having absorbed the vibe of this place that we decided to trek back to Ghangaria. It is usually advised at Hemkund, due to the sporadic change in weather to leave for Ghangaria before 2:00 pm. It had started pouring outside; we grabbed our rain covers & tread downhill, slowly taking in the thrust of the mountains on our knees.  We were able to cover the 6 Kms distance like a child on a slide, reaching Ghangaria by 4:00 pm. The rains had drenched us thoroughly, so we decided to take a hot shower at the hotel only to celebrate our last night, minting some more memories. We settled to meet for tea at the restaurant by 5:00 pm & burst into thunders of laughter & happiness while remembering our individual journeys, until we heard a cry.

A joint family of Sikh Canadian pilgrims sitting on the table next to us was mulling over their lost family members on the Hemkund trail. We were taken aback as to how at 6:00 pm, pitch dark in the mountains could someone manage to be on that trail which is best not taken after 5 in the evening. Soon we heard that choppers were sent to find the ones who were lost, as the trails fear the invasion of bears at night. We finished our snacks & walked back to our rooms, still engulfed in the stress of the family on the other table. It was 7:00 pm by my watch when I heard my room door being banged. I flung open the door to see two men with turbans, holding huge platters of jalebi (Indian Sweet) & milk in their hand asking me, “Would you like some?” Startled, I asked, “but on what occasion are you serving this.?” And they replied, “We found our lost family members on the trail & they are back with us, safe.”

I just looked at them with a smile, rendered speechless at the idea of a Sikh family’s celebration. Here was a family whose heart was bigger than the size of their family put together. I rejoiced with them & was elated within to see how this religion yet again did not fail to stay true to itself. Their spirit is what we celebrated that night over dinner & post-dinner, we walked along the streets of Ghangaria for one last time. That night I slept peacefully having restored every idea of happiness in the mountains. The following day was a long journey back to Auli & further to our respective homelands.